The buyback formula, step by step
- 1
Total what you actually paid
Down payment + every monthly payment made + the remaining loan payoff + sales tax, registration, and official fees. On a lease: payments made plus drive-off costs. Dealer add-ons rolled into the contract (extended warranties, service contracts) are generally refundable too — pull the purchase contract and list every line.
- 2
Add incidental and consequential costs
Towing, rental cars during repair visits, rideshares to the dealer, even repair attempts you paid for out of pocket. Statutes expressly allow these — they are the most commonly forgotten money in buybacks. Receipts turn them from anecdotes into line items.
- 3
Compute the mileage (use) offset
The manufacturer deducts for your trouble-free use. California’s statutory formula — the model many negotiations reference — is: purchase price × (miles driven before the FIRST repair attempt for the defect ÷ 120,000). Only pre-problem miles count; everything you drove after the defect surfaced is on the manufacturer.
- 4
Subtract the offset, check the sanity
Amounts paid + incidentals − offset = the buyback. If the manufacturer’s number is lower, the discrepancy is nearly always in step 1 (missing line items) or step 3 (using current mileage instead of first-repair mileage — a favorite quiet error).
- 5
Attorney fees ride on top
Most state lemon laws are fee-shifting: a prevailing consumer’s reasonable attorney fees are paid by the manufacturer, on top of — not out of — the buyback. It is why lemon law attorneys commonly work without charging the consumer, and why manufacturers settle calculable claims.